I’m not someone who pours over dermatology papers to understand ingredients. But at the same time, I appreciate bloggers and chemists who write in a way that a layman such as self can understand ingredients.
Some of the websites I use to search ingredients: Paula’s Choice
PC Video Skincare– info about hyaluronic acid, vit C+niacinamide
In The Name of Skin- May Lindstrom brand review
Other Blogs I follow:
Veronica Gorgeois, 10 commandments of skincare
Temptalia – mostly on makeup and focused on cutting down purchases by finding alternatives and dupes
TheBeautyBrains – scientists debunking a lot of science and ingredients myths. Interesting articles on aloevera gel, SLS/ALS and SLES/ALES, SPF: UPF of clothing, dry oils, micellar water, myths about swimming pools’ effect on skin
TeaLeavesAndTweed– mostly K-beauty-Innisfree, also on Deciem brands, books
Blogs and Articles on ingredients:
Ceramides-Paula’s Choice– an ingredient that’s missing in a lot of my moisturizers. I need to find something that has this. One option is Cerave Lotion, but it’s not available in India except on Amazon
Medicated Sunscreens- Zoray Aquagel
Ingredients List: Butane, Aqua / Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Homosalate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Butylene Glycol, Nylon-12, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Tocopherol, Sodium Chloride, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Peg-32, Triethanolamine, Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate, Limonene, Pentylene Glycol, Mannitol, Linalool, Benzyl Alcohol, Drometrizole Trisiloxane, Caprylyl Glycol, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Tetrasodium Edta, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Butyrospermum Parkii Seedcake Extract / Shea Butter Seedcake Extract, Vitreoscilla Ferment, Hexyl Cinnamal, Glycerin, Parfum / Fragrance. (F.I.L. C166972/1).
The order of acids in my skin care routine is pH adjuster (COSRX Natural BHA Skin Returning A-Sol), vitamin C serum (C21.5) with a 20-minute wait, BHA (COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid) with a 30-minute wait, then COSRX AHA 7 Whitehead Power Liquid with a 30-minute wait.
Many people, including me, consider the wait time following acids to be critical for achieving maximum results. Chemical exfoliants work best at a low pH, with the recommended range between 3 and about 4.5. Below 3, the product will be too acidic and may cause irritation or even chemical burns; above 4.5, and the product’s effectiveness drops significantly. It takes about 30 minutes for a product’s pH to neutralize and therefore for a chemical exfoliant to become ineffective. Applying another, higher-pH product immediately after a chemical exfoliant therefore arguably cuts short its effective time and limits the results you’ll see from the product. Unfortunately, there is little research specifically into this, so we’re just going by common sense here.
News about the Industry:
Instagrammers I’m loving:
@roadtoglow (Natalie)- her skincare routines involves only scientific brands with no so called green beauty/organic/natural brands. Keeps it simple and I love every product that she’s uses
@goalstogetglowing (Vanessa)- her pH testing of cleansers got me intrigued. I want to start doing it myself. She is especially the best at testing a lot of new products and launches. Also her blog has the most exhaustive compilation of acids, their pH, their %acid content and %free acid content.
@skinminimalist (Marcia)- her Instagram stories and posts are the best. She’s a wonderful writer and is able to put across her viewpoints on products so succinctly in her captions.
@honestlyskin (Jay)– not very active on Instagram unfortunately, but he’s a blogger I 100% trust. I love that he mercilessly calls out established brands and cult products if they don’t deliver on their claims.
@gothamista (Renee)- She has a background in the beauty industry. Again a blogger I 100% trust. She has her own Youtube channel as well. She also dabbles a bit in K-beauty but that’s not an area I have much interest in.
@kindofstephen (Stephen)- a cosmetic chemist. He does weekly recaps of the latest happenings in the beauty industry and is my one stop shop for information on this regard. His article on mixing vitamin C and niacinamide is a must read. I also love his articles on sunscreens, sebaceous filament
@labmuffin (Michelle)- Her instagram posts on ingredients and their functions is concise. I love her posts on sunscreens as well.
How it all started: I discovered Stephanie Nicole almost a year ago. Until then, she was the only Youtuber who convinced me to spend money on her personal product recommendations. And before that, on the few occasions that I’d purchased products based on a bloggers’ recommendations, I would always wait for my product to arrive with a weighty premonition that I was going to lose my hard earned money only because a Youtuber is paid in exchange for a favourable review. But with her, strangely enough, even though it had been just two weeks since I discovered her and binge watched her entire channel, I was confident that the products she recommended will work on my skin. Although in hindsight this is no guarantee, given that we’re on completely opposite end of the spectrum with respect to skin types, I was calm because of the confidence I had that I wasn’t taken for a ride by a mercenary blogger.
I bought two of her recommendations which worked for me and thus began my journey of researching skincare ingredients and indulgence in skincare products.
Please note that this post is a WIP- this is not going to be a blog in the traditional sense. I will update it with ingredient info, reviews by other bloggers, news articles and so on. Also not everything I post on this page are opinions and information I agree with.
Yes. Essential oils are not oils like olive oil or avocado oil is an oil. Essential “oils” are the volatile aromatic compounds of a plant that are hydrophobic (which is the only quality they share with actual oils). They do not contain fatty acids which are beneficial to the skin. They are not “essential” to anything and derive their name because they are the “essence” i.e. scent of a plant. They cause aging because they are highly sensitizing and irritation can cause your skin’s protective barrier to break down, hence accelerating the aging process over a period of extended contact. In fact at least one death has been attributed to essential oils due to their highly sensitizing effect
Gold nanoparticles have been found to induce wrinkles. Discussed here.